Buying a House? READ This First!

Essential House Buying Tips…

Buying a house is a monumental purchasing decision that many people only make a few times or less in their lives. Fortunately, the process does not need to be complicated or filled with unpleasant surprises. Before embarking on buying a home, remember to keep these essential tips in mind.

Financial Considerations

No matter if the housing market is up or down, homes are enormously expensive. As a result, it’s no surprise that financial considerations top the list of what you should think about before buying a house. Understanding the true costs of home ownership is chief among them.

You should examine the impacts of renting versus owning. You’re probably aware that over the long term, it costs more to rent than to own. This generally holds true. However, homeowners need to be prepared to fulfill responsibilities renters are not liable for. All utility bills, maintenance, cleaning, property taxes, as well as mortgage payments are necessities managed by the homeowner.

Zooming in on the details from this list will help you get a better picture of what your prospective house may cost beyond the closing price. Asking for a full breakdown of utility bills, for instance, lets you calculate your average monthly expenses. Request a copy of last month’s utility bills from the owner, realtor, or get an estimate from local providers. You should look at gas, electric, water, and trash costs. Don’t forget additional services you may want like internet, cable, and lawn maintenance or winter care.

Property taxes should be analyzed the same way. Don’t rely on estimates from realtors or owners. A hard look at what was actually paid out last year, and preferably the last five years, shows you what the real property taxes are, and how fast they ordinarily increase.

Figuring out a home’s structural condition may save you additional money as well. Bring inspectors to look at the home‘s foundation, wiring, roof, and other vital systems. Also, make sure you get things like a mold inspection and inspections for lead paint and radon. Property solutions in Hua Hin can help you if you’re abroad, or search your local area for the country you’re in. If the owner has done recent improvements or remodeling, verify the value with an inspector, or ask to see the construction receipts. Although many sellers are honest, there always some who try to inflate their home’s market price by overstating the value of upgrades.

Getting to Know the Neighborhood

Learning about the location of a potential home is just as important as collecting information about the house itself. Remember to take a look at statistics regarding crime, demographics, and education in the area you plan to move to. Normal climate data and potential natural disasters your property could face are worth analyzing too.

You can find out about the general state of the neighborhood by talking to residents, discovering community groups, or pulling up old news stories. Serious crimes in the area will always appear in reports by police and media, while neighbors are likely to mention nuisances, or confirm pleasant features. Visit the area during the day and night to ensure there are no odd surprises that only occur after sundown, or during daylight.

Although scrutinizing a home takes a great deal of work, it saves on potential disappointment and expenditures. Putting in your research ahead of time pays dividends for as long as you live in your home.

 

4 Money Moves Before Buying a Home

Remember the days when the only thing you needed to do to buy a home was to bring some I.D. and stand in line somewhere?  The days of “E-Z Lending!” and “No Money Down!” have long given way to an era loaded with banks and lenders that actually require that potential homeowners have the ability to pay for the homes they’re trying to purchase.  If you’re in the market for a home, you need to make sure that your financials can withstand an underwriter’s scrutiny.  Check out the following four money moves that you’ll need to make before even thinking about buying a home.

Raise Your Credit Score

If you’re planning on applying for a mortgage, but your credit scores are barely there, or smudged, you’ll need to put in the work to raise them to a number that lenders are comfortable with.  Borrowers with high credit scores are rewarded with lower interest rates and less money required for down payments.  Pull your reports from all three CRA’s (credit reporting agencies).  Pay down your credit card debt.  If you’re thinking of paying off old debt or charge-offs, check with the creditor in question to make sure that once you pay, they report the debt to the CRA’s as “paid in full.”  Paid charge-offs are often reported as “new,” a notation that will result in a lower credit score.  Dispute any errors on your reports directly with the CRA’s.

Pay off Debt

If you’re carrying sizable debt, it’s going to negatively affect the amount of money that a lender is willing to lend you.  If you have a lot of revolving debt, pay as much of it off as you can.  Not only will it make you more attractive to lenders, it will save you money over time since revolving debt like credit cards carries much higher interest rates than mortgages do.  Paying off that money up front will save you thousands of dollars in interest in the long-term.

Save for (or be Gifted With) a Down Payment

If you’re going for an FHA loan, the minimum down payment required is 3.5% of the purchase price, provided you have a credit score of at least 580.  If your score is lower than that, you’ll need to put down 10% (another reason to get those scores up!).   Traditional loans can require as much as a 20% or more down payment.  Figure out how much you’ll need for a down payment and aggressively go about saving for it.

You can receive familial down payment assistance in the form of a gift, but make sure that it is accompanied by a “gift letter,” which will include the amount being given, the relationship of the person giving you the money, clarification that it’s actually a gift and not a loan, the property address, and the signatures of all involved parties.

Determine a Realistic House Budget

Everyone wants to buy a dream house, but that dream house can quickly turn into a true nightmare if you bite off more than you can chew in terms of house price.  Assess all of your monthly expenditures including your monthly take-home pay, outstanding debts, home maintenance expenses, taxes, school fees, utilities, etc.  As you can see, the list is long, so when you’re figuring out what you can afford for a monthly mortgage, include all of those other expenses in your calculations.

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BIG Berkey Water Filter Review

Big Berkey water filter review

The Big Berkey water filter is an extremely efficient and powerful system that removes contaminants from water to such low levels that they are not physically or chemically detectable. Water filters are made necessary by the unfortunate fact that tap water is never perfectly clean, and may have chemical, physical or biological contaminants, depending on where you live.

Additionally, since the Big Berkey is portable, you will be able to use it in any location in which you do not trust the water supply. You can for example take the Big Berkey water filter with you when you’re camping, and you can trust it to completely purify water from lakes and rivers. This Big Berkey water filter review will describe how the Big Berkey water filter works and how it can help you to safeguard your health.

BIG Berkey stainless steelPossible water contaminants

Regardless of whether you plan to use the Big Berkey water filter at home or “on the road”, using water filters is always a wise precaution. Water is regularly found to be contaminated by physical, biological and chemical entities that pose varying degrees of risk for your health. The most dangerous chemical contaminants are volatile and synthetic organic compounds such as pesticides and industrial solvents.

This kind of chemical is extremely toxic for humans and several of them are outright carcinogenic! Physical contaminants can be sediments and rusts. Biological contaminants are organisms that can cause some very serious diseases like typhus and cholera. Additionally, tap water may have a bad taste or odors for any number of reasons.

The Berkey water filter has been shown to be incredibly efficient in the removal of all of these contaminants to the point where they are no longer chemically of physical detectable in the filtered water.

Additionally, if you plan to go camping, you should of course know that lake and river water is not regulated at all, so it is even more likely to have dangerous contaminants. The portability of the Big Berkey water filter means that you can take it with you wherever you go so that you can make almost any source of water completely drinkable and healthy!

BIG Berkey disassemblyBig Berkey water filter features

The Big Berkey unit has a capacity of 2.25 gallons (8.5 L), a height of 19.25” and a diameter of 8.5”. The Big Berkey water filter includes either two or four Black Berkey elements or ceramic filters.

The Black Berkey filter element is so efficient at filtering water that it has been shown to remove food coloring completely from water — that is an impressive water filtration efficiency! If you find this claim incredible, check out the video at the bottom of this lens and see for yourself!

The upper chamber of the Big Berkey filter has a re-cleanable ceramic Super Sterasyl filter that efficiently removes pathogens, volatile organic chemicals, synthetic organic chemicals and physical contaminants.

These ceramic water filters have two enormous advantages: firstly, they are re-cleanable, which means that you never have to dispose of them and buy new ones.

Secondly, they successfully inhibit mitosis, which is the type of cell division that unicellular organisms like bacteria use to reproduce.

This is very important, because if mitosis is not inhibited, the bacteria retained by the ceramic water filter would rapidly reproduce and clog up the filter.

Both the Black Berkey and ceramic filters in the Big Berkey water filter unit have been shown to remove synthetic organic compounds, volatile organic compounds, heavy metals, sediments, turbidity, and biological pathogens such as bacteria and cysts. These ceramic water filters are exquisitely designed: they have a domed top rather than a cap, which means that leaks in the top of the filter are physically impossible.

Now that is smart design!

 

These are not just vacuous marketing claims — check out this impressive list of independent entities that tested the water-filtering efficiency of the Big Berkey water filter:

  • ISO-9000: 2000
  • Hyder Labs (UK)
  • Spectrum Labs (UK)
  • WRc – Mednenham (UK)
  • Clare Microbiology (UK)
  • WRc Gwent (UK)
  • Loughborough University (UK)
  • University of Arizona (USA)
  • Thresh, Beale, and Suckling (UK)

The other extremely valuable feature of this filter is the sheer length of time for which it can filter water without having to replace the filters: each water filter can purify 3000 gallons of water, which means 6000 gallons of water in total. At a rate of 10 gallons of water a week, that means that you can go for 600 weeks without replacing the filters. That means 11.5 years of water filtration! This is what we call value for money. Just look at some of the other best water softener reviews and make the comparisons.

BIG Berkey Water FiltersBig Berkey water filter warranty

The Big Berkey water filter comes with a full six-month warranty. This means that during the first six months of your ownership, Big Berkey will replace or repair any of the Big Berkey water filter’s constituent elements that are malfunctioning. They even offer appliance repair in Calgary and other Canadian provinces for those living in Canada.

Remember that companies offer warranties when they know that things are extremely unlikely to go wrong!

Additionally, the Big Berkey water filter comes with one of the following: Sport Berkey Bottles, Berkey KDF Shower Filter, Berkey PF-2 Fluoride Filters, Replacement Parts Kit or Berkey Base. How’s that for extraordinary value for money!

Big Berkey water filter review: conclusion

The Big Berkey water filters stands out among other water filters on the market for its portability. You can take it with you wherever you like, giving you the ability to purify water regardless of where you are. If you go camping, the Big Berkey water filter will give you an extremely reliable supply of safe, clean and healthy water.

If you use it to filter an average of 10 gallons a week, the Big Berkey water filter can work for 11.5 years without having to change the filter! The Big Berkey water filter also comes with a six-month warranty and an additional item of your choice free of charge.

We hope that you found this Big Berkey water filter review useful. If you own Big Berkey water filter, please consider writing your own Big Berkey water filter review in the comments below — other folks will surely find your insights useful. Thank you!

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What is Stucco? How to Mix Ingredients

What is Stucco and How to Mix the Ingredients?

What is it?

Stucco is a cement-based plaster that is often colored and used either on the interior or exterior of homes. Stucco is often used when a brick or stone appearance is needed on a building, but the cost to use the original materials is too costly.  One of the benefits of using stucco is that it lasts longer than most traditional forms of siding like vinyl or wood siding. 

Stucco Ingredients:

The materials needed for Stucco, sometimes called “portland cement plaster” are plastic cement, sand and water. If regular cement is used, hydrated lime should be purchased also to make the plaster workable. No lime is to be used with plastic cement because it is complete as formulated.

Plastic cement is a specially formulated type of cement for use in plaster and sometimes masonry. Plastic cement contains all the necessary ingredients, other than sand and water, to make a suitable mixture for troweling onto walls and ceilings. Most plasterers prefer straight plastic cement to avoid possible confusion at the mixer for the ease of application. Some plasterers use a mixture of equal parts of plastic and regular cement. Either formulation is msuitable. A few plasterers still use regular cement to which Flintkote Type S lime is added in the mixer. Unless hydrated lime is added to regular cement, the resulting plaster may be difficult to spread and will not cling well to lath on walls and soffits. No lime should be added to a half-and-half mix of plastic and regular cement.

Sand

Three general classifications of sand, by gradation, normally are available from a dry material yard. They are concrete, sand, plaster sand and masonry sand. Concrete sand, being fairly coarse, would make a good quality plaster wall but is difficult to spread because of coarseness. Masonry sand is too fine for use in the two base coats of portland cement plaster because it may induce cracks in the plaster. A typical plaster sand used by almost every contractor in the area is called Oly #2, and is mined in the Felton area of the Santa Cruz Mountains (http://sandiegofoundationrepair.net/oceanside/). Oly #2. has a gradation that contributes to ease of spreading, yet is not so fine that it will induce cracking. Oly #1 is masonry sand, not to be used in the scratch and brown coats of cement plaster.

Plaster sand should be clean as well as properly graded. When sand is delivered to the job site, it should be protected against contamination from cigarette butts, scraps of gypsum board, dirt, oil and grease, paper or other harmful contaminants. One may use a cubic foot box to measure sand into the mixer or be guided by shovel count. Normally mixer operators use shovel count and add between twenty and thirty shovels of sand per bag of plastic cement or to the equivalent of a bag of half-and-half plastic and regular, or to a bag of regular plus lime.

Any water supply suitable for human consumption is satisfactory for mixing cement plaster. The most important factor is that one NEVER SHOULD ADD AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF MIX!

Water

Use only enough water to produce a spreadable mix. Any additional water will weaken the finished plaster unnecessarily and may induce cracks.

Lime

If one elects to use regular cement, bags of hydrated lime must be purchased at the same time as the other materials. When adding lime to regular cement in the mixer or whatever tools you’re using, it is customary to use about fifteen pounds of lime for each 94 pound bag of regular cement. The plasterer should be guided by Table 47-F of the Uniform Building Code in this regard.

Lime is not needed to make plastic cement more spreadable.

Mixing Stucco

The minimum volume of plaster sand per bag of cement is three cubic feet. Note that a bag of cement contains one cubic foot of material. The Uniform Building Code (UBC) has established a formula for the first (scratch) and second (brown) coats of cement plaster. That data is found in Table 47-F of the UBC. A copy of this can be found on M&M Home Exteriors website. The maximum ratio of sand to cement in the first coat is four cubic feet of sand for each cubic foot or bag of cement. In the second or brown coat, a maximum of five cubic feet of plaster sand is permitted for each bag of cement.

Check out our reviews of the best cordless drills to use when using a paddle to mix your cement.

The preferred sequence of adding ingredients to the mixer is to pour some water into the mixer, followed by part of the sand. Add the necessary amount of cement, one or two bags, depending upon the size of the mixer. Add more water as required, then the balance of the prescribed amount of sand, with additional water as needed to make a workable mix. Be very careful about adding the last bit of water because it is possible to add too much liquid and make a sloppy mix. The danger of adding excessive water is that it would lead to possible weakness in the plaster wall, plus formation of cracks or checking in the complete wall.

Allow the plaster to mix in the machine four or five minutes to gain full benefit from the air entraining agent interground with the plastic cement in the factory. Entrained air is beneficial in improving workability of plaster and reducing the water:cement ratio.

 

Finish Coat (often called the color coat):

The finish coat, which is the third coat of plaster normally applied by plasterers, is manufactured stucco. Stucco contains all the necessary ingredients to achieve the desired color and texture except for the addition of water at the job site. As is true of the two base coats, only enough water to achieve workability should be added; otherwise pigments may migrate, and the result will be a mottled wall.

Another problem related to excessive water in the finish coat is formation of fine check cracking.

One should be very careful when mixing colored stucco that the same amount of mix water always is added to each batch of stucco, to prevent color variation. It is important that the mixer and working tools be kept clean and free of contaminating mold, dirt, grease or other offensive materials.

Application:

The scratch coat should be the thickest of the three coats. If the amount of mix water is controlled properly, one can lay on a half-inch of scratch coat successfully. The first coat must be applied with sufficient material and pressure to solidly fill all openings in the lath. Allow the scratch coat to take up slightly before scoring the plaster lightly in the horizontal direction only. The score marks in the first coat should be shallow.

The brown coat is considered a dressing coat to help level the wall to good alignment, as well as to build the base plaster out to a thickness of three-quarters of an inch before allowing the brown coat to moist cure and then dry in preparation to receive the color coat. Please use a stable ladder when working in high areas.

The brown coat should be brought out to proper thickness; troweled, rodded and floated to a suitable surface, straight yet sufficiently rough to provide adequate bond for the finish coat. Compaction with a shingle float is beneficial. UBC requires that the brown coat be in place seven days before the finish coat is applied.

The plasterer will decorate the surface of the applied color coat with a textured finish, which may be a dash texture, sand float finish, mission texture or other attractive surface decoration. Cement plaster should not be troweled smooth, nor should it be overworked with the tools.

Minimum thickness of all three coats must be seven-eighths inch over frame construction.

Curing:

Curing portland cement plaster is a matter of retaining enough water within the thickness of plaster to chemically hydrate the cement paste that provides strength and other attributes of plaster. Periodic moistening of the plaster is beneficial to keep water in the plaster membrane. Moistening should be done during the cooler periods of the day; in the morning, late afternoon and evening. If the wall is intensely hot, thermal shock with possible attendant cracking may occur when cold water strikes a hot wall.

Replacement of moisture in the wall by hosing is needed during hot weather, windy weather and during very cold weather. Moistening is necessary during very cold weather because cold air frequently is very dry air, and has the capability of drawing moisture out of the plaster at a rapid rate.

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How To Get Rid Of Bed Bugs At Home

Get Rid of Bedbugs Once and For All!

Discover how to get rid of bed bugs at home effectively. Get rid of bed bugs at home permanently. Learn how to prevent a re-infestation by these tiny parasites from ever occurring again.

“Good night, sleep tight, don’t let the bed bugs bite” is not an appropriate lullaby to kiss the kids goodnight anymore, since these parasites have made a dramatic come back as recently as the mid 90’s after they were almost completely eradicated in the 40’s. At the time DDT was legally used to exterminate cockroaches and many other pests and soon after vacuum cleaners were introduced.

Bed bugs had been confined to developing countries for the time being, but recently they spread across the developed world due to a number of factors like neglect in favor of other pest treatments, resistance to insecticides, ineffective treatment methods and traveling. Bed bugs are opportunistic parasites that will gladly hitch hike in a suitcase and follow their hosts to infest new countries and their inhabitants, hence their success.

Inspecting For Bugs

Bed Bugs are also difficult to spot at first, not until the human host has already been bitten and decided to inspect his/her surrounding to find the culprit do most people even realize what is happening. Bed bugs are oval shaped and flat for easier access to crevices and nooks, usually hiding in the tufts and seams of bedding, head rests, buttons, head boards, edges of carpets and anywhere near where the host sleeps like skirting boards, bed side tables and inside chests of drawers.

They have an ability to infiltrate under wall paper, bed frame hollows, smoke detectors and generally anywhere near their source of food big enough to hide them.

Apart from human transport, bed bugs can be also carried with birds and bats and once established they congregate near their source of food. Apart from red bite rushes anywhere on the body, clues of their presence are their molting outer skeleton shells, tiny fecal droppings and eggs.

Bed bug are attracted to their victims by carbon monoxide and heat and will congregate near them but will also wander around to other rooms in search of food sources. Their flat oval shape makes them adapted for hiding in crevices, staying there in daytime to crawl out at night to feed on their hosts.

Once you’ve completed your own home inspection and their presence has been established, you can start the 2 phase elimination process described below or find out how to get rid of bed bugs at home naturally.

Phase 1 – Remove, Clean, Tidy Up, Vacuum Thoroughly!

This phase is very important in order to remove as many nymphs, eggs and organic debris as possible.

Remove all personal items including laptops, phones, teddy bears, cushions, pillows, blankets. Then vacuum them thoroughly and seal them in plastic bags for few days to check for missed bugs or newly hatched eggs.

Empty dressers, bed side tables and chest of drawers, move them from their place and deep vacuum corners and the inside of cabinets with a nozzle. Go to your sofa and mattress, remove them and vacuum with special attention to seams, tufts, skirts and under the cushions.

Check the box springs for infestation. If there is one, you may have to dispose of the mattress. Dismantle the bed frame and check in the hollow of the metal frame or between the component edges if it is a wooden frame. Vacuum and vacuum again.

Empty your wardrobe and clean it as for the chest of drawers. Since garments cannot be treated with insecticides, machine wash them at a temperature higher than 120*F because adults, nymphs and eggs are all killed within minutes above this temperature. Repeat the process for curtains.

Once you cleaned all the individual parts of the room, furniture,mattresses, textiles, fabrics and upholstery, you can move onto the rest of the room. Vacuum the carpet religiously especially along skirting boards, along the frame of furniture, rails, corners, wall cracks and all visible surfaces and crevices where the parasites may be hiding.

Do the same in all of the rooms of your house that has carpeting or fabrics like your living room. Bedbugs don’t just live in the bedroom.

Next, seal cracks in walls and wall paper with plaster, silicone or acrylic filler to prevent future infestations. In order to expose more bed bugs from their hiding places, you may want to use a flashlight. Finally, remove the vacuum bag and seal it is a plastic bag before disposal. Thorough cleaning and vacuuming is the foundation key to get rid of bed bugs at home.

Phase 2 – Life Cycle And Treatments

life cycle of a bedbugThe life cycle of bed bugs lasts up to 1 year and is divided in 6 stages. Only the last stage is the adult reproductive stage, while the others are immature stages that start with the egg stage followed by a nymph stage with 3 successive molts before the adult stage.

Adults are 4/5 mm long and all bed bugs stages are surprisingly resistant to low and high temperatures. They can survive many days in temperatures below 0* but will die if the temperature is higher than 47 Celsius or 120 F, so anything short of prolonged freezing temperatures or heat won’t kill them.

The treatments available focus on breaking the bug life cycle and are targeted at all life cycle stages repeatedly, either by killing them directly or by interfering with IGR ( Insect Growth Regulator). It’s too bad they weren’t more like a mosquito and you could just use one of the best bug zappers on them 🙁

Chemical treatments like sprays or dust should be applied at least 3 times 10 days apart to be sure of success. In fact, bed bugs feed sparingly few weeks apart, so re-treatment is necessary for complete elimination. Unlike with fleas where foggers are successful, with bed bugs such treatment produce the opposite effect, the bugs will scatter around making it even more difficult to exterminate them.

Pyrethroid, Malathion and Dichlorvos are commonly used for mattresses, sofas, cushions and upholstery, cabinets and chests with particular attention to seams and tufts, However, some bed bug populations have developed a phenomenal resistance to these agents and there is growing concern as to how to find a more effective way to kill them.

Another solution may be an IGR (Insect Growth Regulator) based treatment.

There are also mattress cases on the market that completely seal the mattress and prevent any escape from it. They must be kept for 1 year or so to make sure to break the whole life cycle of the bed bugs by starving them and stop the infestation spreading. If the infestation is severe, you may need to dispose of the mattress, but If it is not too advanced, you may decide to use sprays and dusts to kill the unwanted guests.

Prevention After The Infestation

There is a sound and chemical free way of dealing with bed bugs. If you have already experienced the trauma of an infestation you are already in a better position NOT to underestimate the resilience and adaptability of this successful bug. Wherever and whenever you travel, be wary of where you sleep and of your luggage. Here below there is a prevention check list to help you understand howto  get rid of bed bugs in Pheonix or wherever, even at home and the trauma and disruption that these tiny creatures can do to your life.

  • Always check your hotel mattress and headboards when traveling
  • Do not drop your luggage on the floor but keep it off it
  • Keep a vigilant eye on public transport seats
  • Check for bugs in new furniture delivered from warehouses
  • Avoid buying second hand furniture or bedding
  • Carry a mini flash light to inspect the bed area
  • Back home from a trip, inspect your luggage and vacuum clean it
  • You may want to use a pocket spray can for mattresses and luggage when traveling
  • Use a sticky bed bug trap

Getting Rid of BedBugs Through Cleaning

  • Vacuum the furnishings, including mattress, box spring, headboard, couch and other possible infested areas such as wooden doors and floors every other day.
  • When you are cleaning the furniture, dismantle the bed frames and other furniture so that you can be sure that you can get to all of the bugs when cleaning.
  • You should also dry-scrub the mattress and carpets with a stiff brush to dislodge any bedbugs and their eggs that may not have been suctioned with the vacuum.
  • When you’ve finished vacuuming, immediately remove the bag from the vacuum cleaner, seal it in a plastic bag and take it out to the trash can.
  • Bedbugs sometimes hide in wood piles, paper trash bins, and other areas with debris around your house, so it’s a good idea to go around the house and remove any of these possible housing sites.
  • Remove any unnecessary clutter from around the house and keep it tidy. This will reduce their hiding spaces and increase the effectiveness of the cleaning process, making getting rid of bedbugs a lot easier.
  • Sometimes, it is a good idea to throw away mattress or box springs that are heavily infested with bedbugs.
  • An alternative to throwing away mattresses that may still be in good condition is to get a bed bug proof mattress encasement, which helps protect the mattress from infestation.

Kill Bed Bugs Using Heat

small bed bugLike many living pests, you can also get rid of bedbugs and their eggs by using heat. Most bedbugs can be killed at temperatures of 97°F to 99°F, but you get better results if you heat things up to 120°F.

Here are some ways on how you can kill bedbugs with heat:

  • To get rid of bedbugs, wash your bedding and clothing in hot water and then drying them in the dryer with the hot setting.
  • The same dryer can also be used to kill bedbugs that might be hiding in toys, stuffed animals, shoes, backpacks and other items. Place the items in the dryer and then set for 10 to 20 minutes on a medium to high heat setting.
  • For large item like luggage, try PackTite, a portable electronic heat treatment device guaranteed to kill bed bugs in all its life stages. (above 120°F)
  • Similarly, you can also take items that you suspect have bedbugs and place them into a black garbage bag, leaving them outside in direct sunlight for 2 to 3 days.
  • You can also shop for a bed bug steamer or regular steam cleaner to kill bedbugs. They are quite effective in getting rid of bedbugs, however it is advisable to use one that has dry vapor steam when steaming your mattresses otherwise you may end up with other problems such as mold or mildew growing, as well as dust mites allergies.

Getting Rid of BedBugs With Chemicals

Another way to get rid of bedbugs is to use inorganic agents like silica Aerogel or Diatomaceous Earth which dehydrates and kills the bedbugs.

There are also aerosol sprays that can be used for bedbug removal. Among the more popular brands includes Bedlam Insecticide and STERI-FAB bed bug spray which effectively get rid of bedbugs with lasting residual performance.

Exterminate BedBugs With Professional Exterminators

Getting rid of bedbugs will unquestionably be a long-winded and demanding task. If you feel that you do not have the time or the energy to execute the extermination well on your own, it is advisable to hire a bed bug exterminator who have invested in the knowledge, training and equipment to do the job well and guarantee the success of the extermination operation.

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The Best Cordless Drills – Which One Is Right For You?

When Buying The Best Cordless Drill – What Questions Should I Ask?

When it comes to browsing through the best cordless drills available today, even a knowledgeable buyer may have several questions. After all, the choices have become almost overwhelming.

I think the first cordless tool I owned was over twenty years ago. It was fat, heavy and I think 6 or 7 volts. You charged it for a few hours and could work with it for 10 minutes or so. It was a Craftsman; don’t remember the price… and I was proud of it !

Today, many of the top power tool manufacturers have cordless drills ranging from 10.8 to 36 volts. The now older battery technology is still sold, but at cheaper prices. The new technology, because it is vastly improved does come with a higher price tag.

So, we want to buy a new cordless drill. What should we think about, how do we make an informed buying decision?

Let’s discuss for a moment what type of projects you encounter.

Do you attempt extreme repairs or complicated DIY projects? Are your needs just for occasional home repairs? Do you work with soft materials such as pine, plastic or drywall? Does your “to do” list include hard, tough or brittle items such as various metals, oak, ceramics and concrete? Are you in a contracting profession where your tools are your livelihood?

Answer these questions and we are ready to take a look at the specifications of some of the cordless drills. We also want to read several written reviews pertaining to the best cordless drills that you may put on your list. Remember this point; the more reviews the better. There may be some negativity surrounding any product. I do not let this bother me unless all of the bad comments point to the same issue. Then I steer clear! We have too many good choices to fool around with sub standard equipment.

OK, let’s talk a bit about the drills.

One thing is now certain in my mind. Lithium-ion battery power is the ticket. This source of power provides easier, faster and less fatigue when drilling, screwing, grinding, polishing and any other task you may tackle. Even though these drills cost a little more they are now very affordable. They have more torque and are much lighter. The cycle life of the battery is up to 3 times longer than it’s predecessors. The advances have really been phenomenal.

If you work on soft to medium materials, do a lot of small home projects and repairs, you will probably be very happy with a 12 volt lithium-ion drill. A few of the “major brands” such as Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee and Bosch have tough, high performance products in this voltage category. If you are an avid do-it-yourself advocate or a contractor I would skip the voltages between 12 and 18 volt drills. At this stage a ½ inch chuck is a necessity also. Some contractors, when making a list of the best cordless drills they want to consider, may set their goals somewhat higher. A 24 volt or even a 36 volt drill may be needed to conquer their projects.

Many “features” are standard on cordless drills but you may want to check different brands to see what they offer. One simple feature that has been omitted on several drills is a tool holder for your screwdriver bits. This confuses me as every drill I have ever owned (quite a few) has held the bits. That is a major “must have” in my opinion. You can buy an add-on of this feature though.

What brands provide us with the top tools today? Honestly, that is a tough one. I have studied and tested many by class (voltage) and all have performed admirably for the tasks I gave them. Some seemed to have a bit more power while others took a little longer to charge. There were a few features I liked that were not present on all drills. Make sure your pick has 2 batteries and a keyless chuck. After that most features are a preference.

The bottom line? After thinking about your projects, make you a list. After studying features, reviews and specs you are ready to make an educated choice from the best cordless drills the market has to offer.

Some Of The Best 12 Volt Cordless Drills

These 12 volt drills are small in stature but large in performance. The manufacturer”s have packed solid power and run-time into an extremely lightweight cordless drill. These are perfect for a homeowner or a craftsman that has different needs. I have multiple drills. A smaller one comes in handy, especially in tight spots or for overhead drilling.

Best 12 Volt Cordless Drills

The Most Popular Choice – The 18 Volt Cordless Drill

Why, might you ask, have the 18 volt cordless drills become so popular?

Like most items we buy, there are pros and cons to cordless drills. The 18 volt category of drills is no exception. These tools are more expensive and heavier than our previously discussed 12 volt models, some as much as 2 to 3 pounds heavier. During a long workday this may cause some fatigue. The prices are higher, but now very affordable. The upside of the larger 18 volt drills is very worthy of discussion. I have personally used several drills in this class and have talked to others that have done likewise. We all agree that the 18 volt cordless drill is one of the most versatile and important tools we own.

Good cordless drills generally last for several years. If you have not replaced an old one or are looking to be a first time buyer you will be pleasantly surprised with the new technology.

After all, if someone had told you a while back that there were cordless drills on the market that had 250% more runtime, weighed 40 to 50% less than previous models and had more power, would you believe it?

I didn’t until I tested one. I was immediately impressed and bought a new one a couple of days later. The newer technology is called Lithium-ion. You can read more about it on Drillpressor.com. It is the best advancement in drills since they were invented. In this writers opinion it has made the even the larger tools usable by women and men alike. Even though we are calling them larger, they are ergonomically designed for comfort and smaller hands. They are significantly smaller than their predecessors.

At our house, we are avid cordless drill users. We use them inside and out, for automotive and home repairs. We own 4 cordless drills and make use of all of them. One, a small 12 volt, belongs to my wife. But rest assured, if she encounters a job where a little more power is needed she grabs one of the 18 volt drills and goes to work.

I came home from a job one day and she was in the basement drilling holes in the concrete wall for shelving. She had the 18 volt Makita drill and had just finished installing several anchors. I was proud of her. Actually, I love the fact that she will tackle home chores, it gives me a chance to go to the golf course!

Browsing the internet can be time consuming. I would suggest you try Amazon .com if you have an interest in any tools. They have a huge assortment and delivery is usually in just 2 days.

Bottom line? It’s nice to have a small 10.8 or 12 volt drill as an extra. But if you want to purchase one good drill then an 18 volt would be your best bet. Unless you work in tight spaces or use your drill very sparingly, the slightly larger and more powerful 18 volt cordless drill will handle all of your projects.

Top Notch 18 Volt Cordless Drills

To find the Best Cordless Drills in the 18 volt category, check these out below…

18 Volt Cordless Drills

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Top 10 Problems Home Inspectors Find

My Home Inspection Head Start Guide

When you get your home inspected, any problems that are found mean that you have to fix them and get another inspection, at a greater cost to you. You can prepare to avoid that second inspection by learning what home inspectors consider to be the ten problems they most frequently find.

A short prelude is to recognize that of the ten items, four relate directly to water and its damaging effects. It is then important that keeping water out should be at the forefront of the homeowner’s consideration when it comes to home maintenance and repair.

1) Surface Drainage

This problem is the most frequently cited problem that homeowners face. It is the back up or slower than standard drainage of surface water, and it is responsible for the number one household malady – water in the basement.

2) Electrical Wiring

This common problem is the result of insufficient overload protection, insufficient electrical supply and home wired connections, which are potentially dangerous to occupants.

3) Roof

This ailment is the result of degraded or damaged shingles, which causes roof leakage. Flashing that was improperly installed can also be a problem.

4) Heating

This category includes such items as a defective, non functioning thermostat, chimney blockage, and an unsafe venting of exhaust away from the home. Make sure you change your furnace filters before the inspection, and if time and finances allow, get it properly cleaned and looked over by a professional. Then include the receipt as “proof” of both maintenance and that there are no problems the new owner needs to worry about.

5) Overall Maintenance

This is where various areas of easy to repair items accumulate, such as makeshift fixes for wiring or plumbing, broken fixtures, cracked and peeling painted surfaces, wood flooring or carpeting that hasn’t been maintained and degraded masonry. Everything should look clean and sharp, so do some paint touch up if that’s what’s required.

6) Structural Issues

This category covers damage sustained by load bearing, structural components, such as the foundation, floor joists, rafters and trusses, support beams, headers around doors and windows, and much more.

7) Plumbing

Plumbing problems rank high when it comes to issues of the home. This includes the presence of old and outdated materials, defective or damaged fixtures, problems with the septic system or sewer lines, and so forth. Although the two main rooms these problems occur, the kitchen and bathroom, you still need to be looking through the entire property. Including the water pipes that come up to the house.

8) Exterior

Problems with the exterior of the home, such as for doors, windows and outer surfaces, allow atmospheric heat and humidity penetration, although they do not have much of an impact on the overall structure. Caulking and weather striping are the usual suspects when it comes to issues of the exterior.

9) Ventilation

It is frequently the case that individuals will over seal their home in an effort to have a more efficient air system. This results in the excessive build up of moisture, however, leading to rotting of structural elements. The most common areas are again, the basement and the attic. Make sure trusses are dry and there are no water damage stains or other problems.

10) Miscellaneous

This catchall category covers cosmetic issues that were not cited enough to gain its own category.

 

The results of the survey are dependent upon the age of the home and the area it is located in. Homes in the desert do not have as strict regulations on rain protection than in Chicago for example. Home inspection in Tulsa would be more strict than a smaller town like Wagoner. For the homeowner, it is important to go through the home and review various sections of the home in relation to these categories. They should avoid any self repairs if their skill level is not considered to be up to standards, especially when it comes to wiring and plumbing.

Fix what you can before the inspection, and you may avoid having to do the same procedure twice.

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What Are the Types Of Mold in Your Home?

Types Of Mold

mold infographicDid you know that there are literally thousands of molds that have been identified by scientists so far to date? And even though many have been scientifically classified, we really don’t always know which are good or bad. Some are dangerous while others can actually be helpful.

But one thing we do know, it’s not fun to have mold or mildew growing in your home. Even if they are not dangerous, the staining that mold causes can also cause a lot of money in order to get rid of the mold and then repair the damage it caused. The last thing you want to do is start ripping out walls or replacing carpets due to mold.

But of course the first thing is the safety of your family. That’s why I have started this article by quickly explaining which mold are which and what the differences are as far as how safe they are.

The most common types of mold are those that lurk in our homes are:

Alternaria – Alternaria is an allergenic usually found in soil, plants and in homes around window frames. When inhaled the airborne allergen can cause asthma, hay fever and many other common allergy symptoms.

Cladosporium – Cladosporium is a black or dark green powdery fungus that is found both indoors and outdoors. It grows on dead plants and food. It can also be found in some air ducts. The fungi can become airborne and cause asthma, hay fever, skin rashes and nail fungus.

Penicillium – Penicillium is one of the most common molds found in homes. It’s found in soil, food, rotting food and dust that can accumulate in the air. Penicillium can cause allergies, infections and even serious health problems in some people.

Memnoniella – Memnoniella is a fungus generally found on wood, paper and cotton. Most often it can be found where the toxic fungi known as stachybotrys is lurking. Because it is associated with the toxic fungi, memnoniella is considered dangerous.

Mucor – Mucor is a fungus that is generally found in animal feces, soil and dust accumulated in the home. Mucor is considered a minor allergen, but people with a weak immune system may develop a lung infection when exposed to the fungi.

Stachybotrys – Stachybotrys is a black mold that is known as a toxin. This dangerous fungus can be found where moisture lurks in the home. Stachybotrys can cause serious health problems such as headaches, asthma, respiratory infections, memory loss and even death in infants.

While the above are only a few of the many types of mold that are dangerous to our body’s health, not all are bad. Some molds have been used in medicines while others are even edible. It’s just a matter of knowing which is which and keeping them from doing any damage to your home.

Black Mold and Mildew

Did you know that there is a difference between toxic black mold and mildew? While both are a type of fungus (mold), mildew is not generally toxic, but it can cause allergy problems in some people. Toxic mold (aka toxic black mold) however, can be quite serious and when left undisturbed it can cause a wide arrange of health problems.

Yet despite their differences, both types of mold and mildew should never be left undisturbed for obvious health reasons and I honestly don’t know anyone who loves looking at a nasty fungus problem. And speaking of looking at them, the first thing you need to do is find them.

That means doing a comprehensive home inspection including any areas that no one normally uses like the basement and your attic. Check crawl spaces, places that have pipes that may be leaking, anywhere that is dark or damp.

However, before you run out and buy a mold and mildew remover or hire a professional for mold removal, you should keep in mind that black Mold is a toxin that requires special attention. A simple cleaner will not kill this type of fungus. You need to purchase a product that is designed for toxic mold.

While mildew is generally not dangerous, it’s a good idea that you wear protection when cleaning any fungus. You’ll need a pair of rubber gloves, goggles and a paper (surgical) mask for the job.

Both types of fungus rely on moisture. To minimize growth, repair and seal any leaks before you try to clean up the mold, even between tiles in your bathroom. Otherwise the mold will be back within a few weeks.

Keep things dry to prevent future fungal growth. Wipe down walls after bathing or showering, run exhaust fans and open windows when possible.

Don’t try to do it yourself when materical contaminate with toxic molds are more than 10 square feet. Instead, hire a professional black mold removal company to get the job done safely. If you’re worried about your budget, talk to your insurance company to see if the costs are covered. If not, find out if your city or county offers help for homes that have been invaded by mold.

If you can, invest in an exhaust fan for the laundry room, bathroom and kitchen. If you can’t afford to do so, consider investing in a few dehumidifiers to help reduce the moisture in your home.

Keep in mind that you cannot remove all mold from your home. There are literally hundreds of thousands of different molds that live among us and it is impossible not to have some of those molds inside of our home.

Don’t try to salvage anything that has been contaminated by black mold. It’s almost impossible to save wallpaper, drywall, paperwork and other delicate items. If it’s replaceable and non-salvageable, seal it in a plastic bag and throw it away.

And finally, don’t ignore the problem. It’s not going to go away and when black mold and mildew get out of hand, there’s no stopping it. At the very least, you may have to spend hundreds of dollars repair your home and at worst, you could end up losing your home or your life to the toxic mold. Black mold is nothing to play around with.

Always be prepared because your and your family’s good health could very well depend on it.

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Folding and Extension Ladders Make Your Life Easier

Articulating, Folding, And Extension Ladders… All in One Ladder System!

At some point every home is going to need a little maintenance or repair work done to it.   Whether it is the usual household maintenance like cleaning out the gutters or repair work like fixing a pipe, there is usually something that needs to be done. That is why it is important to have all the proper equipment on hand for when those situations arise, and one important piece of equipment to have is a multi purpose ladder.

Werner MT-22I personally think having a multi purpose ladder should be a requirement in every home because lets face it, not all ladders are created equally. I have purchased a few ladders in my day because I needed a specific ladder for a specific job, and then later realized I needed a different ladder for a different job. Had I purchased a multi purpose ladder from the beginning, I would have saved myself some time and money.

Currently I own a multipurpose ladder that folds, can be an extension ladder and can even be articulated into various shapes to hold planking for standing on.  Best of all I paid about 200 to 300 dollars for it 15 years ago and it still works like brand new today.  Now that is a bargain in my opinion!

To help those of you who may want to know a bit more about multipurpose ladders,  the main benefit of these ladders is its ability to “morph” into many different other types of ladders just by reconfiguring its flex points.  In other words, depending on how you bend the sections of the framing, it can be set up in a variety of different configurations such as a scaffold, straight ladder, step ladder, and extension ladder, just to name a few. It is extremely versatile and durable allowing you the ability to use it for any job inside or outside of your home.

Most multi purpose ladders have about a 300 pound weight capacity and have a variety of heights ranging anywhere from 7 ft to 21ft.  Now imagine how many separate ladders you would have to purchase to do all the jobs around your home, whether it is a small step ladder to hang a picture or clean your blinds, an extension ladder to get on top of the roof, or a ladder needed on a stairway.

Not only is that a lot of ladders, then you run into this issue of where to store them all. Generally speaking, the multi purpose ladder can be folded down for easy storage.  Better yet, if you buy an aluminum made foldable ladder, its very light weight and can be hung by a few hooks in your garage or multipurpose room.

I also want to mention that having the proper ladder for each situation is not only an issue of functionality, but it is also a matter of safety.  Thousands of people are injured every year due to improper use of a ladder.  Two common situations that cause people to fall of a ladder is that they extend themselves past the edge of the ladder or they stand on the very top of the ladder because it is not tall enough.

It is hard to predict what kind of ladder you may need around the home for future projects so instead of making what you have work and risking potential injury, it is best to invest in a more versatile ladder.  So before you start that next project on the house, do yourself a favor and invest in a multi use ladder to ensure that from that project going forward you will always have the right ladder for the job.

I did a little digging on Amazon for you and have a couple of very highly rated ladders listed below for you to check out.  Both of these have free shipping (which is awesome because of the weight) and they both are reasonbly inexpensive.   The first one is about $315 and the second is just a shade under $200.    I don’t think you can go wrong with either one, although the Werner seems to be the more popular of the two…most likely because of price.

Little Giant 10102LGW Ladder System

Werner MT-22 Telescoping Multi-Ladder

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Metal Buildings – Steel Construction

The MANY Benefits of Metal Buildings

Metal buildings are commonly used for many purposes. Steel is often the most commonly used material in the construction of these buildings forming both the interior support structure and in many cases metal siding as well. Metal roofing is almost always used.

A metal building can have many uses such as creating storage space in agricultural or commercial environments but also in private homes. Offices and even some living spaces can also be constructed from steel.

Metal buildings have been in frequent use for around a century with their popularity increasing dramatically in the late 1940’s and 1950’s. This was due to the end of the Second World War causing the supply of steel to increase considerably allowing it to be used more freely in the commercial markets.

Designs

Metal building construction can take a variety of forms. Two of the most commonly seen designs are the ‘straight-walled’ or ‘arched’ varieties. These two terms describe the appearance of the exterior structure.

The arched structure is often used in large agricultural buildings whereas the straight walled design which will provide a greater total amount of useable storage space is often seen in industrial buildings, factories or other commercial projects where metal storage buildings are often found. Metal building manufacturers will be able to advise which specific design will best suit your needs.

The interior structure will often be referred to as either ‘multiple span’ or ‘clear span’.  The difference here is that a clear span design will have no supports to strengthen the structure taking up space in the interior of the building.

This is achieved by using very large beams which support the weight of the building which are placed high up in the internal structure and therefore do not cause any kind of obstructions at ground level. This design is used where the interior of the building needs to consist of one large open space. Steel metal buildings using a multiple span design will have columns or some other form of supporting feature occupying some of the available interior space.

These designs will very often be more economical than the clear span options but the supports are likely to become obstructions where large vehicles or other sizeable objects need to be kept in a metal storage building. The type of interior structure used will therefore very much depend on the primary use of the building. The roofs on these buildings will often be produced from steel corrugated roofing material whether the metal roofs are arched, pitched or flat in design.

 

Benefits

All designs of steel metal buildings have considerable strengths when compared to other building materials that could be used. Steel is in general a strong (especially where corrugated metal is used) and resilient material and so will often require only minimal maintenance. It is non-combustible and so desirable in many industrial or hazardous environments where fire risks may be higher than normal. These kinds of buildings can be constructed more quickly than most others and yet will still be of very high quality. Steel is also resistant to the destructive forces of termites and other insects which could cause serious damage to wood or other building materials. A further benefit is the flooring is usually concrete, another material that is weather resistant.

Smaller metal buildings are becoming increasingly popular choices for use in private steel homes.  A metal shed or carport can now be easily constructed using DIY metal building kits purchased from a metal building manufacturer or from many online stores. Metal garage buildings have also been used widely for a number of years as an alternative to traditional brick built garages. All of these structures are commonly produced from steel along with the many other types of metal buildings for sale which are designed for private homeowners.

If you are not comfortable erecting the structure yourself then there is a wide range of prefabricated metal buildings also available. These can be delivered to your home after being constructed by the manufacturer and transported to you. A huge range of sizes are available which should cater for the needs of most private citizens installing the buildings at home whether as pre engineered metal buildings or DIY projects. Many metal building prices for smaller structures are less than $5000 with the vast majority under $10,000.

With the usage of steel roofing materials also very popular it is now often sensible to construct an entire building from metal whether it is going to be used for commercial or private purposes. The many DIY construction packages now available make these metal buildings an even more attractive and economical option especially for homeowners and small businesses.

There are of course many professional construction, installation and maintenance services also available that will deal with metal buildings of any size.

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All about Roofs & Roof Trusses

What is a roof?

Yeah, I get that you know what a roof most likely is, but do you really know all the terminology and different sorts that are around? After all, a roof is a very large design aspect of any house.

And lets face it, some roofs are amazing while others can be a real eye sore.

So especially if you’re building your home from scratch, it’s really important to understand how different roofing styles can impact the overall design of your home‘s exterior.

A roof is a structure found on the upper of buildings. It’s shape can vary, from a steep V shaped gable, to flat, to semi-spherical to abstract.

The most common roofs found worldwide, however, are gabled, as they are the cheapest to build and most effective at repelling rain.

Roofs are one of the most important constructions know to human beings. They protect us (and our possessions) from wind, rain, snow and hail, and keep heat in our houses when it’s cold outside.

They have been used and built for millenia by humans (and indeed some animals) all over the world.

Roofs often have three layers: the innermost layer is the frame, commonly constructed from wood or metal. This provides support for the surface of the roof.

Next is an insulation layer, commonly of waterproof material, to act as a seal between the inner and outer layers of a roof (although some older building may not have this layer).

Finally, the outer layer is the layer to which the elements are exposed, common materials for this include slate, tiles, sheet metal (commonly lead, corrugated iron or copper) or, in older buildings, thatch.

Styles of roofs

Roofs can be found worldwide in many different styles, some of which are listed here…

Gabled Roofs:

The classic upside-down V shaped roof, found on many buildings worldwide. In more complicated forms, gabled roofs can have more gables protruding out of the main gable, commonly with a window on them. The Dutch gable is also a famous piece of architecture, where a protruding gable has an ornate shape around it.

A crow-stepped gable features the “stairs” up the side of each gable found commonly in northern Europe. Gabled roofs are cheap and easy to build, structurally reliable, and are great for shedding rain and weather.

Gabled roofs also use the simplest roof trusses.

Outshot and Lean-to Roofs:

A lean to roof is the roof of an “extension” style roof sloping down from the main building on to a protruding sub room. If the roof slopes directly from the roof of a main building onto the lean-to roof, it can be described as having a “catslide”.

Hip Roofs:

Hip roofs are commonly found on bungalows or other small structures, and are extremely common in America as part of the classic “4-square” style.

They are similar to simple gabled roofs except that the two would-be vertical sides of the building are tilted inwards.

On square buildings, they are tilted inwards so far that the roofs represents a four-sided pyramid, sometimes referred to as a pyramidal roof.

Hip roofs have great advantage over gabled roofs as they require much less bracing against the wind, they are in fact self bracing.

The fact that they are far more streamlined only enhances this effect. A downside of a hip roof is the restricted attic space.

Mansard Roofs:

Of French origin, a Mansard roof has two gradients on it: an initial shallow gradient, and then an immediate change to a steeper gradient towards the end of the roof.

However, a Mansard roof may sometimes have a flat top as the first gradient, then a steep gradient around the edges, resulting in an upside-down tray shape to the roof.

The mansard style was popularized in France in the 1600s, and then gained extreme popularity in America, with many iconic houses and buildings boasting a mansard roof.

These sorts of roofs are perfect for a roof restoration as they are expensive to build and are not often found in newer homes.

Gambrel Roofs:

As a gabled roof, but with the two longest sides in a mansard style.

Flat Roofs:

The distinctive flat roofs found in warmer, dryer areas of the world, where the need to shed rain is at a minimum. Classic flat Roofed cities include Jerusalem.

Flat roofed homes can, however, become extremely hot in sunny weather, some methods to induce cooling of the house include covering with thin sheets of asbestos, and pouring water over the roof.

Special sun-reflective paints are also available, roofs coated with such are known as ‘cool roofs’.

Roof Truss Design

The shape of the roof is most houses all depends on the shape and style of the Roof Truss Design. A roof truss provides support and stability to the roof and evenly distributes the weight of the roof away from the exterior walls.

A Roof Truss is generally made of wood for residential use and steel in commercial use. They are generally triangular in shape because this provides the best stability and support. There is no other shape that can withstand the same amount of tension or compression load.

If you are building your home from scratch and are in the process of deciding what style of roof to have, you should take careful consideration in your decision.

A Roof Truss should definitely not be chosen on looks alone as there are more important factors that need to be considered such as; the stresses that the building may encounter, the size of the open plan and weather conditions.

The majority of home builders order roof trusses from Roof Truss Manufacturers because is very labor intensive, so it is generally a lot cheaper and more time consuming to order prefabricated roof trusses.

Sometimes the roof truss may have to be built on site if delivery is a problem or the design is a specific type or size that is not readily available.

Creating a Roof Truss Design

The start of a Roof Truss Design starts with a sketch which in normally done by an architect. The sketch of the ceiling is drafted first then the roof truss is drawn in showing how the truss will support the walls and roof of the structure that is to be supported.

Feature Roof Trusses

Feature trusses also referred to as Oak Trusses or Bolted Trusses can add a beautiful feature to any room. They are generally hand crafted and add an outstanding centerpiece to new or existing homes.

They are extremely aesthetically pleasing and can create open and spacious feeling to any room and they can be designed to suit architectural character of the property.

So there you have it, a quick introduction to the different style roofs.

So which one is your favorite?

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